ポルトガル旅行雑感
去る3月末から4月上旬にかけて「ポルトガル8日間の旅」に出かけた。その後、安倍首相が欧州諸国歴訪の際、訪れたリスボンのジェロニモ修道院、「ユーラシア大陸の地の涯」のロカ岬にも行った。
それはまさにユーラシア大陸の地の果てへの旅であるだけに、実質的には6日間の滞在でしかなかったが、世界遺産を8箇所も訪れることが出来たのは収穫であった。
そこは全く欧州の辺境と言う感じで、日本からの直行便は勿論ない。フランクフルトまではJAL便だったが、欧州主要空港からもポルトガル行きの便数は少ないらしく、同空港では乗り換えに4時間を要した。しかも接続便が遅れ、ホテルに着いたのはその日が変わる寸前の2355だった。心身ともに疲労困憊を感じた。まさにはるばる地の果てに来たという感じである。
久しぶりにパックツアーでポルトガルに行ってみようと思った第一の理由は、日本とポルトガルの縁の深さである。
欧州の大航海時代が始まって、余り年数をおかず、ポルトガル人が日本の種子島フィリを訪れ、鉄砲をもたらして、ある種の軍事技術革命を惹起し、織田信長の天下布武の基盤となった。この南蛮人の近世日本に及ぼした影響は計り知れない。ボタン、襦袢、メリヤス、カステラ、天麩羅、パン、カルタ、マント、カッパ、ビロード、ラシャ、フラスコなどの日常語を拾い上げただけでもその影響力の大きさが伺える。
第二の理由はポルトガルが大航海時代の幕開けを主導し、海上貿易国家として最初の繁栄をみた近世海運の先達の歴史に海運人として多大の興味を懐いていたからである。
しかし今回ポルトガルを訪問する前は今や世界政治経済の主流からは程遠いこの国のことにそれ程の知識はなかった。
この国の歴史はそれ程古くはない。キリスト教騎士団の活躍によって、スペインよりも早く国土回復運動(レコンキスタ)に成功したが、スペインによって併合されそうになる。軍事貴族が支配するスペインの支配下に置かれることを嫌ったリスボン市民たち(堺と同じような貿易商人たち)がエンリケ航海王子の父ジョアン一世を押し立てて、スペイン軍をリスボン西方の平野で打ち破り、独立を保ったと言う。しかし、ポルトガル人にとって、当面の敵はイスラム教徒軍だが、後門の狼はスペインであった。この安全保障上の見地からジョアン一世は英国と同盟条約を結んだ。以後600年、一度も破られたことがなく、外交史上奇跡の条約とされていると言う。今でも有効なのだろうか? 学生時代にはかなり熱心に国際法を勉強した積りではあったが、そのような事実は寡聞にして、全く知らなかった。
この同盟の絆としてジョアン一世は英国の王族ランカスター家からフィピッペ王妃を娶った。フィリッペ王妃は弾むような知的好奇心に富んだ聡明な女性で、彼女の遺伝を受けた3人の息子たちのうち長男は法律の知識を、次男は地理学の知識を、三男エンリケ航海王子は天文、航海、造船に関する知識を吸収し、蓄積し、国家建設の基盤にしたと言う。 今回巡った至るところにジョアン一世、エンリケ航海王子の銅像、墓、記念碑などが見られた。まさに我国で言えば神武天皇、日本武尊、聖徳太子を一緒にしたような建国神話の時代が、ジョアン一世、フィリッペ王妃、エンリケ航海王子、バスコ・ダ・ガマの時代だったのだろう。
次のジョアン2世の時代には喜望峰が発見され、インドへに航路が開かれる。しかし、その次のジョアン3世の時代に絶頂期を迎えたが、その後衰退に向かう。特に1755年のリスボン大地震の後は再び勢力を取り戻すことはなかった。その理由を司馬遼太郎はポルトガルにはオランダやイギリスのようなビジネスの思想や技術がなかったからだと述べているが、果たしてそうなのだろうか?
そうであれば、ポルトガルの繁栄は高々300年くらいと言うことになる。しかしその間に築いた世界遺産の夥しさ、広大さ、マヌエル様式の壮麗華麗さ(マヌエル様式と言うのは海洋国家ポルトガルのアイデンティティを誇示するロープ、鎖、などの船具、海藻、熱帯果物などをあしらったアーチを囲む装飾)には圧倒される。大航海時代の貿易の利益、植民地からの略奪と言うのは計り知れないほど大きかったのであろうか?
我国も東北大地震から遂に立ち直れず、衰退の一路というようなことにならなければ良いが・・・・・。
イベリア半島にあるポルトガルのことをスペインと一からげに乾燥した地中海気候、赤茶けた瓦礫だらけの平野だと漠然とした先入観を抱いていたが、最初の訪問地ポルトについてからリスボンを離れるまで、毎日雨が降り、時には熱帯のような激しい驟雨に見まれた。雨量が多い所為か、ふんだんに緑の丘と谷間と平野が広がり、しかも常に民家が目に入ってきて、日本の田舎を旅しているような安らぎを感じた。またフランスのようにTGVで走っても、緑の牧場が広がり、牛や羊は見えるが、人影や家影がパリ近郊に近づくまで殆ど見えないのとは全く異なる。料理も魚介類が多く、日本人の口に合う。
西洋文明の最初の伝達者がスペインのような無法で残虐な略奪者ではなく、比較的穏やかなポルトガル人であったことは、我国にとって幸せだったのではないか?と思った。
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